|Paul Rubin was on a brand new Wayne Rich 5' 11" or something close to that size and thin,
not enough board for the conditions which makes Tom Curren look even more incredible.
|Paul, who himself is a very good surfer, said he’d never would have believed Tom
could have made that first barrel, a full curtain nightmare.
Check how that waves is sucking out over the rocks under him, fairly low tide.
Just getting that 5 footer into an 8 foot face is nuts to begin with.
|He ripped the wave to pieces and rode it nearly 300 yards. After each wave, he walked back up
the rocky shoreline. There was no possible way for him to paddle back in that surging water.
After the first wave he stopped by us and pulled out a saw and cut off some of the foam
he’d glued onto the top of his board!
|He was stoked and talked to us how the wave and conditions were similar to Burleigh Heads in Oz.
Just one of his waves were better than the total of all the guys in the water.
He got one barrel that had to have been 5 seconds, a full close out.
Paul and I saw it thinking there’s no way he’s coming out let alone surviving such a pounding.