|These photos are of one of the few times Jim took someone along.
He had told his nephew he was going in and he wanted to meet Jim there, so he gave
him the vaguest of directions. Just as he was about to head home, the nephew shows
up with a friend. There was a swell, so they decided to spend the night on the beach.
Jim didn’t have any food, but they had a large coke and some chips, so they slept on
the sand. During the night, wild pigs came down onto the beach, as they are known to
do at the ranch, and started rutting around in the sand all around the boys. Made for
an uneasy night's sleep. They were up at the crack of dawn and out in the water.
|The most amazing surfer on the team turned out to be John Peck, whose family
had just relocated to Hope Ranch from the Islands. "We drove down to Malibu with
him, to see how he would do on those waves. His style was cat-like. The smoothest
I’d ever seen. He ended up placing second, after Wind-&-Sea’s Joey Cabell. I don’t
know why we didn’t enter Shaun Claffey, because he probably would have placed
first. Danny Hazard and I were on the paddling team. For practice, I used to paddle
from Hope Ranch to the Pit and back."
|"Continuing up the coast, I soon stood among the palms fringing the bay of
Refugio Beach, black fronds stirring against the eastern glow and then catching
the full golden wash of morning sunlight, shadows stretching across the sands to
the undulant blue of the waves. Out in the bay a white schooner swung on her
moorings, the smell of bacon and eggs from a dozen campfires, and I lay down
beneath a palm, placed my head on my bedroll, and fell into a deep sleep. "